triadaers.blogg.se

1. #Full frame sensor vs aps c manual#
2. #Full frame sensor vs aps c full#
3. #Full frame sensor vs aps c iso#

The crop factor of an APS-C sensor is, generally speaking, about 1.5. I wanted to write an abridged version for my own benefit, focusing on the questions I needed answered. The essay really is excellent, and extremely thorough, but it is also quite long and intimidating. So I did some research and stumbled across an excellent essay on equivalence by Joseph James: The more I thought about what I thought I knew, the less it seemed to make sense. While considering this I realised that I didn’t fully understand the compromises I’d be making.

So I’ve been thinking about moving to APS-C.

#Full frame sensor vs aps c full#

I’ve considered small full frame options like the Leica Q, but ideally I still want interchangeable lenses. However, recently I’ve been placing more value on having a camera which can be with me more often, which means size and weight have become more important. The combination of large sensors, extensive lens ecosystems and excellent body performance puts them in the sweet spot between APS-C and medium format. That has repeatedly lead me to choose full frame (FF). (As an Amazon Associate, Shutterbug earns from qualifying purchases linked in this story.When choosing a new camera body, traditionally I look for something which will allow me to take the best quality photos in the greatest range of conditions. The best thing, you might discover a genuine gem that’s been hiding in your closet since you bought that new DSLR. The worst thing that will happen is that the images might look like they were shot through a tunnel. One is at a very large camera specialty store whose name you’d immediately recognize.īut the biggest reason I’ve dredged up an 11-year-old lens today is to encourage you to color outside the lines and try your APS-C lenses on your full frame DSLR.

So then why am I wasting your time with this, since you can no longer buy it new? At the time of this writing, a 60-second search uncovered two for sale online in used condition. Once again I’m sorry to remind you, this lens was discontinued in 2010. The focus ring rotates smoothly and the lens mounts on my Nikon with a tight, crisp snap. And like every other Tokina lens I’ve ever encountered, the mechanical construction is clean and sturdy. It has 9 aperture blades and accepts 52mm screw-in filters. Optical construction consists of 9 elements in 8 groups.

#Full frame sensor vs aps c manual#

It features an Autofocus Switch Clutch Ring which enables quick access to Manual Focus for fine tuning if desired. The minimum focusing distance for this Tokina 35mm f/2.8 is 5.5 inches (14cm) which delivers a Macro Ratio of 1:1 (life-size). Measuring a petite 2.87 x 2.36 inches (73圆0 mm) and weighing just 12 ounces (340g) it occupies very little space in a gadget bag so it’s convenient to have around when that macro moment presents itself. Even the very corners of this shot of Eastern Purple Coneflowers ( echinacea purpurea) is clean. This vignetting (or “shading” as it’s called by some camera makers) is usually most pronounced when shooting toward large open areas like skies, and it’s hard to fix.Īs you can see from the uncropped image below, the Tokina macro did not produce noticeable shading under typical shooting conditions. In most cases, this mismatch causes moderate to severe vignetting (dark corners) for obvious reasons. I’m not suggesting that other APS-C style lenses perform like this one. Some of the images have been cropped for publication but none have been sharpened. ©Jon SienkiewiczĮvery image in this story was shot with a Nikon Df and the subject Tokina 35mm f/2.8 macro lens, and every shot is full frame, not crop-sensor.

#Full frame sensor vs aps c iso#

Nikon Df with Tokina 35mm f/2.8 Macro, f/8 for 1/250 sec and ISO 125. Yes, that blur you see is the bumblebee’s wings vigorously flapping.